The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the World
To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Across the City
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on